This was during the reign of King Edward VIII and wife Alexandra
Engraving was used on many pieces to try to reflect lace
Platinum was the metal most used because it was thin and lightweight but sturdy
The most commonly used gemstone was diamond, but also favored were amethyst, pastel blue Montana sapphires, Australian black opals and natural pearls.
Cut many of the stones into pear shapes and used a millgrain edge.
Art Nouveau (1890-1910)
Yellow gold was the favored metal
This jewelry was inspired by the Symbolist movement, a time of religious mysticism and eroticism
Jewelry reflected nature and fantasy; emphasized originality and beauty of the piece, not the cost of metals and stones
Popular designs included flowers, vines, beasts and dragons
New gemstones such as tortoise shell, horn, baroque pearls, demantiod garnet
and moon stones were used
Pieces also included shading and enameling
Most common enamel was Pliqué a’jour (transparent metal with no backing) and
Basse Taille and Guilloche (engraved or raised metal with fused transparent metal over it)
Art Deco (1920-1935)
Pieces were symmetrical and had strong angular shapes and geometrical patterns
They were to have an “architectural appearance” or “industrial look”
Jewelry was influenced by cubanism and industry
White metals such as platinum, white gold, and silver were preferential
Gemstones used were rubies, sapphires, emeralds and onyx
Gemstones were placed into contrasting colors, light stones paired with
darker stones. Example diamond and black onyx
Stones had new cuts such as triangles, pentagons, marquise, trapezoids,
emerald and trillion.
Retro Art (1920-1935)
This jewelry was inspired by Hollywood and World War II
Much of the jewelry produced came from the U.S. because Europe stores closed during the war
Pieces had 3D designs such as bows, ribbons and fabric like folds but also some like zippers and pipe
Link bracelets, charms and stud earrings became more popular during this time
Colored metals such as rose, yellow, and green gold were used since other metals went towards the war
After the war in 1945 the use of platinum rose and other metals diminished
Popular gemstones were diamonds, rubies and sapphires which were combined to create a patriotic look
Other gemstones were aquamarine, topaz and citrine which were usually cut large to create a “Hollywood” look
The use of synthetics became popular during the era
The illusion setting was also favored so many engagement rings would have a small diamond but look much larger
